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Arrive in Dubai
Arrive in Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates.
Overnight in Dubai. Dinner if required.
Dubai - Sharjah - Ajman - Umm Al-Qaiwain - Ras Al-Khaimah - Dubai
The United Arab Emirates is a group of seven sheikhdoms which united into a federation in 1971. The Emirates cover a total area of just 83,600 km² (32,600 sq miles), and it's population of more than 2 million comprises over 70 nationalities. One of the fascinating aspects of the UAE is that expatriates vastly outnumber citizens. The economy functions entirely on the skills and labour of peoples as diverse as Americans, Pakistanis and Filipinos. This multi-ethnic transience, combined with the sheer modernity of the area and strict religious codes, produces a uniquely dynamic society.
From Dubai we travel north to the third largest of the emirates, Sharjah.
Spread out along the Khalid Lagoon, Sharjah is an old trading centre with a laid-back feel. We explore the waterfront region, including the old souk (bazaar) area, and we will have time to explore the huge Central Market where hundreds of shops and stalls sell a dizzying variety of goods. Before leaving the city state we will view the King Faisal Mosque, the largest place of worship in the UAE, capable of holding up to 3,000 people in prayer.
From Sharjah we travel through the three northernmost emirates in the UAE. The Hajar Mountains sweep out of Oman and into the northern and eastern parts of the UAE. With a higher level of precipitation in the mountainous regions than in the southern desert regions of the country, as we travel north from Dubai we watch as the countryside becomes more dramatic and greener.
Our first stop is in Umm Al-Qaiwain, the emirate with the smallest population of the seven states making up the UAE. Umm Al-Qaiwain is a simple, little place with no high-rise modern buildings. Here we get a feel of what the traditional towns of the Gulf were like before the oil boom rocketed them from the Middle Ages into the 21st century in less than 30 years. Here we can also see an extraordinarily well preserved Bronze Age tower.
Travelling north to the emirate of Ras Al-Khaimah we enter an area of unexpected greenery and well-tended fields. This emirate is the agricultural centre of the UAE. We visit the Ras Al-Khaimah Museum where we will learn about the many archaeological sites in the area, and we will also see a functioning wind tower. These towers were a feature of the old houses of this region and functioned as a form of natural air-conditioning in the hot climate. Tall, hollow towers were built onto the houses and open to the air near the top. Warm air in the house would rise up the tower and cause a cooling air circulation through the house. The old town of Ras Al-Khaimah, built around the harbour, is a charming place to wander and take lunch. North of the town we visit the archaeological site which spreads out around the so-called "Queen of Sheba's Palace".
On our journey back towards Dubai we stop at the smallest of the emirates, Ajman. Here, we stop at the excellent museum, built in an 18th century fort. Upon reaching Dubai we end our day with a journey across the creek by water taxi, known as an "abra". The abra is a wonderful vantage point from which to see the modern and old buildings sitting along the creekside.
Overnight in Dubai. Al Khaleej Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Dubai - Abu Dhabi
From Dubai we travel south to enter the largest of the emirates, Abu Dhabi, and make our way to its ultra-modern capital on the Arabian Gulf. Although Abu Dhabi city was founded in the late 18th century, the city exploded with oil wealth in the 1960s and the city was entirely rebuilt. There are almost no buildings in the city more than 30 years old. However, Abu Dhabi's citizens are very proud of their fabulously rich city with its broad avenues and futuristic buildings. The city's architecture is an intriguing interpretation of Islamic designs crafted in modern materials. We will see the magnificent waterfront boulevard and visit the Petroleum Exhibition where we will learn about the oil industry which has turned this piece of desert into one of the worlds' most technically advanced cities. We will also visit the whitewashed Al-Husn Palace, the oldest significant building in Abu Dhabi. Abu Dhabi is situated among a group of islands. Later this afternoon we take a cruise among the islands.
Overnnight in Abu Dhabi. Mina Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Abu Dhabi - Dubai
Today we explore two of the most futuristic cities in the world where man’s architectural achievements seem to defy nature and gravity! Dubai is a dynamic city state at the heart of the UAE. Although it is one of the smallest of the emirates, Dubai is one of the wealthiest and most varied. Dubai is world famous as a duty free shopping centre, and it is on the basis of trade (not oil) that Dubai has built its wealth. The city is built around the Dubai Creek, a salt water inlet which bisects the city.
From the Creek traditional Arab 'dhow' ships set out for ports in India, the Gulf and East Africa-- just as they have done for centuries. As the business centre of the Gulf, Dubai has earned the title "The Hong Kong of the Middle East". It’s skyscraper modern architecture is impressive. We tour Dubai city to observe the city's lay-out and modern architecture. One of our stops is the World Trade Centre, the highest building in the Gulf. At 37 storeys high it forms a prime landmark and affords an excellent panoramic view of the city and surrounding countryside.
Although an ultra-modern city in many respects, much of Dubai's heritage has been retained. Our first stop is at the Dubai Museum, housed in the restored Fort Fahidi. Inside this mud-walled fort, dating back to the early 19th Century, the displays chronicle the long history of the Arabian Gulf. There are finds from the Qusais archaeological site dating back 3,000 years, and displays on the pearl fishing industry which brought wealth to the Gulf in the 19th century. From the museum we will explore the Creek area and see the old houses in the Bastakia quarter.
Time permitting, we will take a 4WD vehicle excursion into the desert this afternoon.
Overnight in Dubai. Al Khaleej Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Dubai - Fujairah
Today we leave Dubai and travel east to the only one of the United Arab Emirates not located on the Arabian Gulf, Fujairah. At first we cross the flat desert but the scenery becomes wilder and greener as we rise into the foothills of the Hajar Mountains through steep mountain gorges and wadis. Politically, this is a very obscure region -- there are several small territorial enclaves isolated deep within the boundaries of other emirates. There is even a small enclave of Oman totally surrounded by the UAE.
We drive through the hills and down to the coast of the Gulf of Oman to the town of Dibba, on the border with the Omani enclave on the Musandem Peninsula. In Dibba we will view the old fort before heading south down the coast. The scenery on this drive is spectacular, with jagged mountains coming down to deserted white beaches lapped by the bluest of azure seas. At the town of Badiyah we will see the oldest mosque in the UAE, and at Khor Fakkan we enter a tiny enclave of the emirate of Sharjah. Before visiting the relaxed modern town of Fujairah we will stop at the old town. The original town of Fujairah was abandoned early in the 20th century and the old houses and fort have been untouched since.
Arriving in modern Fujairah late this afternoon the rest of the day is free to explore the town, visit the museum or enjoy the facilities of our hotel.
Overnight in Fujairah. Sijl Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Fujairah - Muscat
From Fujairah we head south to the Omani border. Once through the border procedures we enter a different world from the UAE. Oman is not principally a land of sand deserts but rather a dramatic area of dry, jagged mountains with narrow river valleys (wadis) between. The evidence of Oman’s tribal past is everywhere, with ruined forts commanding every important vantage point. Although Oman is rich from oil revenues, the country has not opened up to foreigners. In the UAE expatriates seem to run every aspect of daily life but in Oman foreigners are limited to specific jobs - particularly those to do with the oil industry. Much of Oman remains hidden in remote valleys and there is a feeling of self-imposed isolation here at the tip of the Arabian Peninsula. Many of the forts in Oman, although national treasures, are closed to foreigners without special permits. They can, however, be viewed from outside.
The extensive plain of the Batinah runs between the sea and the mountains for 270 km (167 miles) from the frontier with the UAE south east to Muscat. It’s width varies, averaging about 25 km (15 miles) and it is one of the most densely inhabited regions of Oman. This is not saying much, however, since Oman only has a population of 1.65 million living in a country of over 300,000 km² (117,000 sq miles). Most of the people live in or around Muscat, the capital. The cultivation in the Batinah, and hence the villages, is concentrated in a narrow strip along the coast where about half of the cultivated land in all of Oman is located. The palm groves are densely green sheltering limes, bananas, pomegranates, figs, papaya, mangoes, guavas and vegetables. Fishing is also very important in this area.
The first major settlement we come to in Oman is the fishing village of Sohar. This town was once much bigger, being the centre of an empire stretching from India to Africa. This was where the legendary Sinbad the Sailor set out on his voyages. Today Sohar is a sleepy shadow of its former glory. The early 17th century Sohar Fort is unusual in that it is whitewashed rather than being earth-coloured like most Omani forts. Sohar was the centre of an ancient copper mining and exporting industry dating back 4500 years. The tower of the fort contains an interesting museum and the tomb of a 19th century ruler.
Near Al Khabura in a classic palm frond building there is a government-sponsored centre for rural women. In one room women learn to read and write while in another room women work on traditional ground looms. The government not only keeps this form of weaving alive by teaching the art but by buying the blankets produced.
At the town of Barka we will see another fort which contains a mosque, a well and a small museum. As we approach Muscat the agricultural plain narrows with the mountains closing in on the coast.
Overnight in Muscat. Al Falaj Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Muscat
Oman’s position on the Arabian Sea/Indian Ocean, and its isolation from the rest of Arabia have given the country a much more outward orientation. Trade from Oman to India and Africa has been conducted for thousands of years. During the age of the European empires in India and Africa, Oman developed strong ties to Britain. Sharing the mountainous south coast of the Arabian Peninsula with Yemen, Oman shares many features with its western neighbour, including aspects of their dress and architecture. In ancient times this area was where highly-prized Frankincense was grown and exported.
The capital of Oman, Muscat, is by far the largest town in the country. It is not actually one town, but rather three separate towns plus several associated towns all separated by geographical features of the mountainous, indented coast. We start our tour of Muscat in the associated town of Medinat Qaboos where, among government ministry buildings and foreign embassies, we learn about the history and culture of the country at the Oman Museum. We also visit the Natural History Museum to learn about the wildlife and geography of Oman. Driving to the port town of Mutrah, we visit the wonderful souk-- a traditional Arab market with a '1001 Nights' atmosphere.
Oman was formerly a country of warring tribes, so almost everywhere you look you will see forts perched on hill tops, (some of them are still used by the Omani army or police). As we drive around the coast today we will view several forts including those of Al-Jalali, Al-Mirani and Mutrah. In the town of Ruwi we visit the excellent Armed Forces Museum to learn about the tribal history of Oman.
Driving on to the town which is technically called Muscat, we will see the beautiful waterfront boulevard and the Sultan's palace.
Overnight in Muscat. Al Falaj Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Muscat - Sur
Leaving Muscat we turn inland, climbing into the fertile Wadi Semail. This has always been a key route, being the only major natural break in the mountains leading from the interior to the coast. The fortified village of Fanja stands on a rock ridge, it’s defensive position once strengthened by surrounding walls and watch towers on higher ground. The town’s date palm plantation stretches 8 km (5 miles) along the course of two wadis (seasonal rivers). At the point where the road divides stands the fort of Bidbid. We choose the twisting road through the Wadi Aqq which leads onto a pleasant, wide plain dotted with hills and acacia trees. This area has been inhabited since the earliest times and we will see burial mounds scattered across the landscape-- many of them more than 5,000 years old.
It is in this region that we can savour the atmosphere of traditional Oman, as it was before the days of oil. Towns here prospered centuries ago on the trade with Africa and Zanzibar coming through the Omani port of Sur. Fine houses and forts were built and many of them still stand today, set back from the road behind the modern buildings.
At the oasis town of Ibra the palm groves are protected by seven watch towers on neighbouring hills. The Harth tribe are recorded as living here as early as the 8th century. Many of the decorated mud brick buildings date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The old souk (market) of Ibra is now abandoned but it’s palm frond-shaded main street gives an idea of traditional town life.
Mudairib is one of the best preserved traditional villages in the area surrounded by tall, fortified buildings and centred on a tree-shaded square and souk.
The town of Kamil is surrounded by walls and contains some fine, high mud-brick houses. Here we take the turn off to Bilad Beni Bu Ali which has an impressive fort and a large, old mosque. The road passes along beside the Wahiba Sands, a sea of shifting sand covering 8,000 km² (3,100 sq miles). Most of the desert area of Oman is a flat gravel plain but the Wahiba has huge ridges of orange sand dunes separated by valleys. The few Bedouin who still live here breed fine camels. Returning to Kamil we turn towards the coast and the town of Sur.
Overnight in Sur. Sur Beach Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Sur - Nizwa
We explore the port of Sur, located where the Gulf of Oman meets the Arabian Sea. In the town centre we will see the Sinesia Fortress with its four watchtowers. However, it is Sur’s maritime history that is of particular interest. Sur was an important port even in ancient times but really came into its own when Oman started to trade extensively with East Africa. Merchants here made fortunes from the trade in slaves and cloves and used the profits to build elaborate houses. At the Marine Museum we will learn of Sur’s history and its role in shipbuilding. Sur has one of the few existing boat building yards where traditional wooden Arab dhows are still made. These fine sailing ships carried Arab merchants far across the seas to Africa, India and South East Asia. These trading missions were responsible for spreading the Islamic religion to countries as far away as Malaysia and Indonesia. After visiting the dhow-building yard we take the short ferry ride across the mouth of the Wadi Fulaij, to the boatbuilders’ village of Ayga. After returning to Sur we make our way inland and make a short detour to see the Bilad Fort. After driving through desert and oasis areas of eastern Oman we start to climb into the mountains of the Jebel Akhdar region, which is the centre of traditional Omani village life. Here villages cluster round fortresses amid jagged peaks, sharply cut valleys and small palm oases. The tribes of this area are fiercely independent and until recently this has led to almost constant tribal warfare. Even as late as 1954 the local Imam (religious leader) staged a separatist rebellion against the central power of the Sultan in Muscat. The Sultan only managed to put down the insurrection with the help of crack units of the British army.
We drive through the hills to Al kamel, an interesting oases before driving onwards to Nizwa, the main town of the interior province.
Overnight in Nizwa. Breakfast and dinner.
Nizwa
Nizwa was the capital of the country in the 6th and 7th centuries. The immense date palm plantation at Fanja stretches 8 km (5 miles) along the course of the two wadis (seasonal rivers). Nizwa is famous for its fort, and gold and silver handicrafts. It is the economic and commercial centre of the province. We see the Nizwa Fort, built in the mid 17th century. For 300 years this was the seat of conservative Islamic rule by the Imam who was both the head of state and religious leader. The Nizwa souk (market) can be explored for handicraft bargains, and you may even be able see jewellery being made. Oman has always had a strong tradition of intricate silverwork, especially in the making of Khanja daggers. It is an important symbol of manhood and wealth for men to wear the curved Khanja in their belts. The more intricate the silverwork on the handle and scabbard of the knife, and the more detailed the leatherwork on the belt, the wealthier and more powerful an Omani man is. For Omani men, proudly wearing an intricately worked Khanja over his traditional robes is the equivalent of a western man wearing a hand tailored Italian suit! The Omani government has made efforts to preserve and promote the traditional handicrafts of the different regions of the country.
Later we visit the town of Bahla which frequently was the capital of Oman, especially between the 12th and early 17th centuries. Bahla has retained its town walls which are over 12 km (7 miles) long. Mud brick buildings and palm groves fill the enclosed area. The Bahla Fort is a United Nations World Heritage Site. In nearby Jabrin we will see a building which looks like a fort but it was actually a sophisticated pleasure palace.During our stay in this little visited part of Oman, we take our four wheel drive vehicles up into the mountains, north of the Jebel Akhdar, to see rural life and some of the dramatically-located forts that command the mountain passes. At the town of Al-Hazm we tour the impressive fort, constructed in the mid 18th century. Inside the fort there are many rooms built on several floors, and an inscription on one wall shows that there was an original fort built on this site in 1512. Five bronze cannons in the fort attest to long period of Portuguese rule of the area during the 16th and early 17th centuries. The fort has a sophisticated water system including a very deep well and an underground irrigation system to water the fort's gardens.
Further into the mountains we visit the imposing fort at Al-Rostaq, a large building containing many sections including a prison and an Islamic teaching school. Again, the fort has an advanced water supply making it a self contained bastion in the high mountains. Leaving the fort we have time to explore the small town of Al-Rostaq and see the traditional dress and ways of the mountain people. Before driving to Muscat we stop at the hot water springs of Nakhl and their neighbouring gardens.
Overnight in Nizwa. Breakfast and dinner.
Nizwa - Salalah
Today we drive back to Muscat and then Salalah, the second largest town in Oman. Salalah is isolated far in the south east of the country, close to the Yemeni border. The setting here is magnificent, as Salalah faces the Arabian Sea/Indian Ocean, and is backed by hills.
Overnight in Salalah. Salalah Holiday Inn or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Salalah
This morning, before heading up into the mountains in our four wheel drives, we tour Salalah including the museum and the archaeological site of Al-Balid. In pre-Christian times this tiny area was one of the three centres of production for one of the ancient world's most highly-prized and expensive commodities, Frankincense. This was the main area in which the Frankincense tree grew. Demand for this rare product was enormous in the Mediterranean region as it was burnt in huge quantities during religious rites in temples throughout the Roman world. (Frankincense is a gum dried from the sap of a special tree that only grows in this area). Today we learn about the Frankincense tree and explore the Dohfar mountains. We visit the site of Sumhuram, the port at the beginning of the Incense Route. We also visit the traditional boat building village of Taqua, the spectacular beaches at Mughsail, the "Queen of Sheba's Palace" and the oasis springs of Ain Arsat and Ain Hamra.
Overnight in Salalah. Salalah Holiday Inn or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Salalah - Muscat
We fly back to Muscat today, and have free time to further explore the bazaar and the coastline.
Overnight in Muscat. Al Falaj Hotel or similar. Breakfast and dinner.
Departure
Departure from Muscat.
Breakfast.